Notes from Riyadh

Yes, it is an Islamic Country
What this means is that the lives run around their practice of religion. Stores (even at malls) shut at the time of prayer. Restaurants don’t take orders. Offices have an area demarcated for prayers. It is absolutely normal to find a clean, respectful place wherever you are and offer your prayers.

No, it is culturally not very open
Continuing with Saudi Arabia being an Islamic county, they practice their traditions with all the seriousness. This means it is rare to see women without their Abayas. The only time I saw a woman without one was when I landed. And the flight I was in had one Brit lady that wore denim and a flannel shirt.

But if my conversations are to be believed, it is changing. I spoke to a lady there and she said that her niece (who’s 12 right now) may not grow up to like wearing an Abaya. But then this would remain an urban phenomenon. The smaller cities and interiors would retain their culture for a few more years at least, if not decades

No, you can’t take photos without permission, if there are people in the frame. 

Yes, the internet is controlled and censored. But for someone like me, who had to use a lot of Google and GSuite, things were just fine. No, I did not try to search online for casinos, gambling, alcohol, pornography to see what results are thrown at me. 

And yet, the country is thriving! 
There is a lot of economic activity. There are malls, stores, coffee shops and everything else that you expect from a modern city in a thriving economy. Businesses operate from 8 AM and while office time ends by 5 PM, malls are open till 1030/11, local businesses are open till as late as 2 AM.

They have traffic jams, especially at office hours.

They have skyscrapers. I mean, of course, they’d have. Why would they not have? They are among the richest countries in the world. Just that sitting here in India, reading reports from western media, you tend to create a mental image. I mean look at this building…

I was later told that this twisted tower design is a common one in the entire GCC region.

And yes, it’s safe. Very. In the time I was there, I don’t think I saw one cop. Of course, there are cameras and sensoring and each activity is tracked and all that but in general, as I said, it’s safe to walk around.

There is Starbucks! Must give credit to the way they’ve got the service levels right. Even though I went there all of two times, the Baristas remembered my order!

There is even Benihana of Tokyo (junta from MDI would relate to this). There is all the big brands – Virgin, Nike, La Senza, Victoria’s Secret and some homegrown ones as well.

Coming back to activity. If you stood by a highway there and took a shot of the cars passing by, the number of cars, the make and the speed with which they are driving past, you’d never guess you were in Riyadh!

This is from a highway on a random day at a late hour (post the office rush). Ignore the bottom half of the photo. Look at the top half.

In terms of food, even though I am a vegetarian, I was ok. Riyadh has enough options that it is NOT tough to find vegetarian food. If you eat eggs, you’d not have any discomfort at all.

And things are opening up. 

I have one word for this. Qiddiyah.

If you want more words, there is Riyadh Seasons.

And further, every person I spoke to – cab drivers, clients, prospective clients, businessmen, businesswomen, employees, restaurants, waiters, professionals and everyone in between wanted to work.

They even made this mosque that does not look anything like one. I can’t imagine any other religion giving one of its religious icons such bold shape! Hats off to the person that thought about it and then the person that gave approval. I can’t imagine that happening here. Especially in the environment that we live in!

KAFD Mosque. One of the most stunning buildings ever.

But, life for a regular Saudi is not as rosy as you would imagine.

Some cabbies told me that they work two jobs to make ends meet. 

In fact, while I was there, talking to people, it dawned on me that it sucks that people have to go far from their homes and people and lives and stories and cultures to make ends meet. Like the cabbie I spoke to, he traveled from Karachi (in Pakistan) to become an Uber driver. There was this Saudi that came from a village in the interiors of the city. And then, there was me, from Delhi, living in Mumbai, in Riyadh to look for opportunities that help me make money. Like Amrish Puri said, “roti ke liye mitti sey door jaana padta hai“…  

I wish I could fix it. For myself. And for the world. 

Anyhow.

The other thing that I learned while I was there is the urgency of time. I had about a week there. And that meant I had to squeeze in all my meetings in that many days. And some of them were going to be with people that may not want to meet me. And that made me rush with things like no one’s business. 

The things that I did not understand are.

They use and of course, waste a LOT of plastic. It is so rampant that I got sick after a while. They use it in EVERYthing. At restaurants, shopping malls, kiosks, laundry, packing, tablemats at restaurants to shopping bags to wrapping paper to everything else. It seems to be like a way of life in Riyadh! 

The city is full of cats. I mean I felt as if I was in a Murakami Hemingway world. There are cats all over the place. In the alleys, on the roads, under the cars, in the dustbins, heck ever insider the Starbucks! If I were to live there any longer, I would do a Cats of Riyadh Facebook page, if it doesn’t exist already! 

The other thing that the city has in abundance apart from cats is abandoned cars. You feel as if you are in a film set where there are gunners hiding behind these abandoned cars.

I mean look at this car…

Shot by Saurabh Garg, edited by greypixel.in. Also here.

In the end, 

I’d suspect the people would have a high degree of satisfaction 

In one word, I’d say the trip was more eye-opening than anything else. And yes I would love to come back! May be soon. Want postcards? Lemme know! 

Thanks for reading!

Saurabh Garg,
Mumbai, 2020

PS: Apologies for the quality of the photos. For some reason this trip, all the photos are super bad. To a point that I hate them. But can’t go back now. Or may be, the next trip?

Disclaimers. Very very important. Please read.

• I went there for a few business meetings. And this means that a lot of things were taken care for me – hotel, commute, etc.
• I was there for about a week. This means that I did not see the entire city and did not experience it in its entirety.
• I was confined to the Riyadh area. I did not step out of the city.
• These are things that I observed. These are not scientific or something